Antarctica is a magical landscape of ice shrouded in millenia of silence; it is also a hive of scientific and natural research. Sara Wheeler spent seven months on the continent and passes on her insider how the world’s nations battle over territory and co-operate over conservation, how the staff at the base camps live and work, what drove men to compete to reach the South Pole…and how to sort through the travel methods, routes and crucial timing problems involved in visiting the Great White South.